When surfing on a new spot…
At the moment i’m in France 🇫🇷. As I was looking at the waves it got me thinking if all the thing we have to keep in mind when you go out somewhere new.
Surfing somewhere new is always exciting. When you see a new spot with pumping waves first instinct is: screw it, going out. We all do that but that’s the easiest recipe for disaster.🚫☠
When you go to a new country or any other spot you have to keep in mind that all the waves🌊, spots🏝 and conditions🌦 varies. That’s why is really important to always watch it for a few minutes. Check the current, check the crowd, check the waves and all surroundings really.
Currents may sometimes be your friend but being honest here most of the time they are not, always keep in mind the more you fight it the worst. If stuck in a current and you can not really function: relax, float and raise your hand for assistance🙋🏽. But best recommendation is to swim parallel to the beach, toward the breaking waves🏊🏽. But you can really avoid this by assessing the situation before you get out there.
You could be surrounded by really good surfers and you can also be surrounded by full on beginners. If you are really annoyed by them you have two options: try and be away from them or go to another spot where there will be no beginners. Is no use getting out there and getting mad at them if you already knew they were out there.
Is good to know what kind of waves you like, rocks or no rocks?
There are different breaks and that’s another thing you have to keep in mind. The most common ones are:
Beach break- Is mostly sand. The waves focus on the sandbars where is pretty shallow and loose energy on the deep parts, that would be the channels.
Point break- Ok to make it easy and not to scientific🔎. We can say that a point is like a headland. When the wave approach with all it’s power it’ll hit the point making it spread all the energy instead of focusing in one spot. On a point you will probably surf weaker waves but they are long and they won’t go smaller as you go down the line.
Reef- the reef waves are more powerfull ones. Sometimes deep and sometimes really shallow. Usually when you surf on a reef break is recommended to have a bit of experience because it hurts. So what happens is that when the waves hit the reef it sort of slows down then it’ll mostly go left and right. It will keep going the same speed but then in the shallow section it gets heavy and fast and well barrels. Something sort of like pipeline… Familiar?
So these are some of the few thing you have to keep in mind when you visit somewhere new. 🗺✈️🏄🏼
Enjoy all your journeys and try the local food. I know I am enjoying it.🧀🍷